From Quito Sophs and myself (Steph) took a night bus to Lago Agrioup up near the border with Columbia. From here we drove for 3 hours through strange villages built on cleared forest that had been cut down for excavation of oil. Was pretty grim! Eventually we got to the Cuyabeno river and took a 3 hour ride deep into the forest in a motorized canoe to our lodge. We stayed in huts, there was no electricity, just candle light, it was fantastic. At night the stars were breath taking and the sound of the insects deafening!
My high light of the trip was meeting a real shaman. His names was Alberto and he was in his 70´s. He told us all about how he had trained for many years with his grandfather learning about the medicinal properties of the plants to become a shaman. (He spoke in the native language and Jaun translated.) After many years of studying there final test is to take an highly hallucinogenic drug which they extract from a tree. They become high for about 30 hours and in this time they believe that they are educated about astronomy (interesting!) If they manage to get through this test mentally they then become a true shaman. The shaman has a very interesting way of diagnosing patients also. They both take a hallucinogenic drug (different to the one just mentioned) called the ayahuasca which is extracted from vines in the jungle. They then both become high for about 3 hours in which time they believe they go through a journey together and can take on the power of their alter ego, which may be an eagle or a tiger for example. Once the effects have worn off the shaman knows what is wrong with the patient and can cure them with the plants. These Shamans are used to cure all ailments from headaches to cancer. Well its certainly a different way to how we practice medicine at home! They are so cut of from the world out there that every one uses the shaman, I expect they don't know any different any way.
Our guide Jaun had grown up in the jungle and it was amazing how he could find the creatures amongst all the undergrowth. We saw so much wildlife but it was difficult to get good photos as they moved fast and were well hidden in the leaves. Our best sighting was a Harpy Eagle which apparently is very rare. Jaun said he had not seen one for 2 years and they were as rare as seeing a jaguar or a tiger! There were millions of creepy insects also. Check out the tarantula pics! One of the girls found one in her shower! Arrrrgh! and another got stung by a scorpion!
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